Do you have the idea to create a USB sound card, which is based on a PIC interface? Today, you have the chance to learn to develop an USB Audio Streamer V1.0, or it is a microchip PIC based USB sound card.

For this project, the hardware part is based on all Microchip, and the software part uses a modified version of Microchip USB framework. The main objective of this custom interface is for programming the device serial number and upgrading the firmware.

Hardware Part

The Microchip PIC18F2550 USB processor is used as the sound card purpose. The processor is clocked at 48MHz, where it is the maximum rate for this processor. The microcontroller is being connected via the SPI port to the Microchip MCP4822 12bit D/A converter. The separate port is being used in the project to control the volume and enable it to run inside the processor at a different priority level.

Software Part

The main software part that consist in the USB audio streamer are the audio card firmware, the card INF file for the custom interface, a C++ library and a command line utility. You can simply download the source code here.

Hope you guys will enjoy this project!

It’s hard for you to look for the original Air-Byte IR transceiver nowadays, and it’s a better choice to DIY yourself.

Most of the parts used here are not critical as you’re thought, such as the NPN darlington transistor driving the infrared LEDs, the PNP transistor used for inverting the IR detector output and the similar materials can, easily replace all other components.

For this project, the main brain of the Air-Byte transceiver is a tiny 8-pin PIC12F508 microcontroller, which the operation is very simple. The PIC is used for monitors GPIO,0 connected to the PC serial port TX pin #3. This also means, the 12F508 will generate the 40kHz IR carrier, if only the pin transitions from logic low to logic high, otherwise, it is suppressed.

Thus, it provides a simple method for receiving the serial data on one pin, and then output the serial data on another modulated at the IR detectors. This makes the band-pass frequency very simple and effective as well.

Enjoys the moment and have a nice DIY day!

Do you having any special plan for the upcoming Halloween festival? Well, you might be thinking, “Nah, is still too early for it…” However, this is the best chance for you to practice your PIC controller knowledge, by DIY a “Hack-O-Lantern”.

Before you starting the project, those components you need to prepare here are:

• Super Bright LEDs, which means you can keeps the Dim LEDs away from this project
• A Parallax Basic Stamp 2 Microcontroller Board
• Some nails, which it can be used to hold the micro-controller board onto the side of the pumpkin
• Computer speaker that will act as an amplifier
• Sharp knives, and of course
• A big and round Pumpkin!

Ok, firstly, you have to carve your pumpkin and it’s totally depends on your creativity; whether you want to make the pumpkin a scary face, or even smiley face is up to you! You have to make sure that the LEDs will shine through the pumpkin as well.

After that, you must hook up your microcontroller with the LEDs and speakers in the same place. Next, you have to plug in the 470 ohm resistor leading into the far set of rows under the Vss terminal. Then, is time for you to plug the LEDs into the Vss terminals, which it’s exactly the same rows with resistor (rows 14, 13, 12, 11).

Lastly, remember to put the controller into the pumpkin and you’re done with it!

OK, let’s the Halloween party begins…

Although now still a summer time, but is also the best time to equip yourself with the incredible home heating system, where it might take up to 2-3 months of time construction (When you’re finished it, you can use it for keeps your house comfort during the cold winter).

Since this is a huge project, you need to ensure all the require components are fully standby:

Heater

It is better to use a heater that has 8kW heating power. You have to connect it to the system, by simply using flexible shielded pipes. By this way, you can easily move the heater around its place without even disconnecting it from the main system!

Radiator

You need to have two radiators, where both of its will be connected to the system using the standard ½” pipes.

Operation Panel

It is a user interface part of the controller.

Expansion Volume

It is an open metal tank that be used to compensate the water expansion whilst the temperature increasing. The normal level/volume for this system is about 1/10 of all water volume. You need to connect it to the system using the standard 1/2″ pipes as well.

Note: This project is a highly dangerous task, as there is a voltage inside that has AC 220V! Therefore, never try to acting smart, if you not an experienced electrician, as this can be a lethal weapon and might bring casualty, if you insists to mess with it!

Have you ever think about by combining the two different things: Infrad-red link and AVR then transform them into a cool stuff? Well, if you haven’t tried it before, you have to test it out today!

To cut the long story short, you just going straight to the point…

Firstly, you might want to build the prototype in stages. The first stage will contain just the AVR and an infrared detector with some bypass capacitors. Don’t waste your time build the circuit on breadboard, as it wouldn’t work. The breadboard is picking up noise, thus you need to remove the components from the breadboard and solder them to a prototyping board. Now, the circuit will be working.

Then, you would need to add a 14.7456 MHz crystal and the two capacitors on the prototype, which this for a more stable oscillator and more robust communication.

If you refer to the figure above, you see a complete device. On the left hand side, you will use a 2-pin power connector to power the circuit from an AC adapter rather than the NXT. The white 6-pin connector on the bottom connects the circuit to an AVR programmer and the gray connector, which next to it is connects the device to the NXT. The serial port is connected with the 6 header pins on the top right.